Esztergom is a small city of an estimated 32,000 residents that lies on the northern border of Hungary, just 50 kilometres north-west of Budapest in the Region of Central Transdanubia. This important historic city stands on a rocky outcrop overlooking the River Danube and is testament to the struggles of Hungary. The city’s most popular attraction is the massive Esztergom Basilica, or Cathedral, that stands high above the river and dominates the city, and remains to this day the seat of the Roman Catholic Primate of Hungary.
Originally a Roman border town known as Solva in the Province of Pannonia, the city grew in importance during the Middle Ages when the seven Magyar tribes united to form the original state of Hungary, with Esztergom becoming the first capital of the country. Esztergom was also the birthplace of King Saint Stephen around 970 A.D. and his subsequent crowning by the Pope in 1000 A.D. made the city the Royal Capital which it remained as for approximately three hundred years. At this time the city also became the seat of Christianity in Hungary, which it has remained as to this day. Although the city survived the Mongol onslaught of the 13th century, it fell into disrepair during the Turkish occupation and many of the buildings from its former glory have not survived the intervening years.
Esztergom is one of Hungary’s oldest towns and unfortunately much of the original town was destroyed during the 150 years of Ottoman rule. The lower town that stands on the banks of the Danube is called Vizivaros, or Watertown, and it is here amongst the delightfully quiet, winding, cobbled streets and church towers, that it is possible to enjoy the history of the city. The most beautiful buildings are found around the market place, the Szechenyi Square. Within Watertown there are several architecturally pleasing buildings to see such as the 18th century Parish Church, the former Bishop’s Palace that includes the Kereszteny Museum, the single towered Franciscan Churches, the Courthouse and the Town Hall. The Kereszteny Museum houses the largest collection of religious art and the largest collection of medieval art outside the National Gallery in Budapest!! This includes Hungarian, German and Italian paintings and sculptures, plus tapestries and other artworks in gold and silver.
Of the original Esztergom, only some of the original castle walls, bastions and rondellas remain with the Cathedral being re-built in the Neo-Classical style during the 19th century. This classic building is now the largest church in Hungary and one of the most impressive, with a dome that reaches 71.5 metres high, giant arches and an enormous altar. From the top of this huge dome, spectacular views can be enjoyed over the surrounding hills, the Danube Valley and as far as the Small Plains in the west. On one side of the Cathedral is Saint Stephen Chapel, and on the south side the 16th century Bakocz Chapel, which is the only Chapel to survive the turbulent medieval times. Also while visiting the Cathedral make sure you see the Kincstar, or Treasury, which contains a stunning array of ecclesiastical jewels and gold works. Next door to the Cathedral is the re-constructed Royal Palace, later the Palace of the Primate of Hungary, part of which now houses the Castle Museum that contains an extensive collection of weapons, coins, pottery and fragments of old stone columns.
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