The ancient city of Limoges is a major city and capital of the region of Limousin in central France. It is a university city and an important artistic and religious centre, and today recognised by its listing as a ‘City of Art and History’ for its contributions to the culture and heritage of the nation. The city is well known for its production of fine enameled art works which it became famous for during the medieval period, and which underwent a revival in the 19th century, and its exquisite porcelain that was founded during the 18th century after the local discovery of a high quality kaolin or clay. Limoges is a popular tourist destination with visitors attracted for the rich heritage of the city which spans over 2,000 years from the early days of the Roman Empire, its historic buildings, the most imposing of which is the Cathedral of Saint Etienne, museums and galleries, and the beautiful works of enamel and porcelain art which are created by the local craftsmen.
Limoges is located on the right bank of the Vienne River and historically consists of two parts, l’Cite or Vieux Limoges (Old Limoges), and La Ville Haute (High City) which is also known as le Chateau. Tourists are generally attracted to l’Cite, or old Limoges which stands on a plateau high above the river and is dominated by the Cathedral of Saint Etienne. The old town is easily explored on foot and is centered around the Gothic styled 13th century Cathedral of Saint Etienne and the 18th century Bishop’s Palace that is home to the Museum of Fine Arts. This museum proudly exhibits Egyptian, lapidary and archaeological collections, plus many fine paintings and one of the largest enamel collections in the world. Within the painting galleries are several works of art by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, who was born in Limoges in 1841. Stretching between the Cathedral, the former Bishop’s Palace and the river are the beautiful and colourful botanical Jardin de L’Eveche, over which looks the Musee de la Resistance that is an important museum in Limoges as the city played a very active role within the French Resistance movement of World War II. To the north-west of the Cathedral can be found the old quarter with its narrow medieval cobbled-streets and picturesque half-timbered houses, while to the north-east there lies a network of steep, narrow streets which follow the terrain as it falls down the edge of the plateau towards the river. Here the river is crossed by the picturesque Pont St Etienne which dates from the 13th century and was built to assist the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella.
The high city, or l’Chateau, stands at the summit above l’Cite and originally was centered around the Romanesque Abbey of Saint Martial which, during the medieval period, was an important pilgrimage site along the Way of St James, or the Route to Santiago de Compostela. The Abbey became a renowned spiritual and cultural centre and housed the second largest library in France after the library of Cluny, and became well known during the medieval period for its fine enamels which were traded throughout Europe. During the 18th and 19th centuries the building was demolished and was replaced by the Place de la Republique. During the 20th century excavations were carried out within the Place de la Republique to re-locate the abbey which exposed the location of the crypt that contains the tombs of Saints Martial and Valerie, and which today are open to the public. L’Chateau still contains a wealth of historic buildings and attractions that deserve a little exploration, such as the 13th century Church of St Pierre du Queyroix which is located to the east of the Place de la Republique, and to the west of which can be found the Church of St Michel des Lions that is well known for its stained-glass windows which date from the 15th century. Other attractions include the historic Rue de la Boucherie which appears much as it was during the 14th and 15th centuries when roughly 80 butcher’s shops traded along this narrow cobble-stoned street. Today the street retains one authentic butcher’s shop which reflects the way things were during the medieval period and preserves many picturesque timber-framed buildings which are a pleasure to explore. The Rue de la Boucherie is also well known for the annual (October) Festival of the Little Bellies when revellers gorge themselves on venison and wild boar. Located just off the Rue de la Boucherie can be found the tiny 15th century Chapel of St Aurelian, who was the patron of the Guild of Butchers in Limoges, and the complete 16th century cobbled-courtyard of the Cour du Temple that is surrounded by well preserved half-timbered and sandstone buildings in which the richer members of the city once lived.
For tourists interested in looking a further, Limoges also offers the Musee National Adrien Dubouche which exhibits more than 10,000 ceramic pieces, 500 enamels and several works by Renoir - the centrally located 19th century Les Halles, Market Hall which is built of steel, glass and brick and decorated with porcelain motifs – one of the finest Hotel de Ville buildings you will see in France, built in the 19th century by a legacy given to the city by a rich porcelain manufacturer – the Pont Saint Martial that was built in the 12th century and which replaced a Roman bridge that was destroyed by the English King Henry II – and La Gare des Benedictins, Limoges railway station which is considered to be one of the most attractive stations in France. It was built of reinforced concrete in the 1920’s, and designed in the Art Deco style of architecture. The building is one of Limoges better known attractions and includes an outstanding 67 metre high clock-tower and a huge 31 metre green dome.
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